With love from Muncar, Bayuwangi, Jawa Timur, Indonesia

Dearest…

I’ve decided from here and now onwards I desire to write to you only so it will always come from my heart. I had two great weeks with the waves that kept me in peacefulness but for me the real adventure commences here. Instead of waking up heading for the waves, this time was contrary. We are heading for an exploration. Khad n Man made friends with Ibu Ul’us and she invited us a stay at her hometown in Muncar, Bayuwangi, East Java and we followed her to her hometown on Sunday morning 08/08/10.









Our trip began early morning with Pak Imron picking us up with his minivan which we paid for rp 800k. Ibu Ul’us, her friend and the three of us went for a 6 hours journey on the road along the west coast of Bali, took a ferry to java Island and towards to Muncar, Bayuwangi. After lunch, we stopped by at Ibu Ul’us eldest daughter Ul’us house in Blambangan, Muncar. Her husband, Mas Haji Ikrom was still recovering from liver affection. Along the way we encountered marching parade from schools and clubs in Muncar as they practiced for the Indonesian national day which will be on 17 August (65th year). Later that evening we went to Ibu Ul’us house in Tembokreja, Muncar which was about 4km away from her daughter’s house. We met Ibu Ul’us son, Affendi and his wife. Affendi sells bakso on his bicycle and his clients are from four nearby villages. I had slight warmth on Monday. After lunch we followed Mas Ikrom to his working area. He was a fisher and owns a big boat where his workers would go out to the sea and do the fishing for him. Bayuwangi is the 2nd largest fishing industry in Indonesia after kepulauan Sulawesi. He brought us to the beach where the entire of the trading was done. Later that evening, we went to witness the national day parade. They advanced the parade before the actual Independence Day because Ramadhan falls on Wednesday. I envied the spirit these Indo have on observing them parading. They were more open on what they want to do and usually would have their own variety trademarks within their troops. I felt their independence and freedom compare to what we have in our country. Later that night news spread to the Chief of Tembok, Muncar that there were three outsiders in town. He came to the house and asks us to identify our passports as he reasoned that he was jealous not to be informed of our stay. The next morning two other people came to verify us. They advised us to report to police on our stay and we did that. I did not understand why the fuss was exaggerated because immigration had done their part on our stay Indo. Or maybe they just want something in return from us. Once settled at Muncar Police station, Pak Ikrom brought to do some fishing at Bali strait. Rudy whom we met a day before joined us as we rented his father’s boat for rp. 200k. Rudi was Mas Ikrom’s cousin. Did you know that there are 169 types of fish in Bali strait? The initial plan was to go to Pasir Putih which was nearby Pelengkung (2nd largest wave for surfers) but the waves and current were too strong for us to go further. We only manage to get three fishes, which I caught a little one. Before heading home we hung out at an island where most fishers would stop by. To my disappointment, to see them being ignorant of the cleanliness of the sea, as rubbish, oil and fish dumps were scattered in the sea, especially at the shore. Rudy brought us Nongkreng (hangout) the nightlife in Muncar with his friends Riul and Kristian. It opened my eyes knowing the locals here, how they crave for education as they appreciate money so much. I cannot deny how cheap things were here. Imagine a cup of good cappuccino cost me rp. 2k = 50-60sen. To work around here usually would earn about rp. 200-400k = RM50-120 per month. As for Rudy he works at Pulau Batam as a kitchen helper and he earns rp. 1.7M. It took him three years to save up for his first motorcycle. He said that he doesn’t mind being a cement mixer in Malaysia which he can earn rp. 3M. You must know that the population of Indonesia is 250 million and 220 million are in poverty.









We started our Ramadhan with a BBQ fish for sahur. The first night of fasting was melodically booming. There’s like madras in each village and each village was proximate. From where I stayed we four different azans simultaneously can be heard and echoes of others but as for Ramadhan they would read the Quran until 12 midnight and would start again around 2 at night. They would call for SAHUR SAHUR SAHUR like every 30 minutes starting from 2am. There even kids playing drums just to wake the society up for sahur. So the night was sound tracked with Quran reading, calling for sahur, kompang kids but it’s hard to hear which is which because every madras wanted to be the. They surely know to make full use of their loud speaker. Sirens were also used for imsak and Maghreb. I find the terawih can be a little too fast or maybe I just need more time to adapt. For sahur and breaking fast regularly we would by food from Market and ibu Ul’us would cook for us. On Thursday evening, Rudy brought us to a local league for Muncar with entry of rp 3k. The yellow team was one nil up against the orange team when we came. The 2nd half scenario was certainly bizarre. It started out with yellow team committed a foul in his penalty area but the referee gave a free kick instead. In dissatisfaction, a fan from the orange team barging in the field towards the ref. Then a yellow team’s fan came towards that guy and a fight broke out between them. The game was paused and the police was included. Then the referee was brought to the side with the players involved to re discuss what occurred. A new decision was made and the ref gave a penalty but the yellow team doesn’t want to play because of the new ruling. In the end a player from the orange team took a penalty without a keeper. The final score was 1 – 1 and that was the end. As Friday approaches we had to search for a ticket to Jogja as for our next destination. It cost rp. 85k 12hours ride to Jogja by bus and rp.180k 20 hours ride to by train because it stops at Surabaya first.







By the end of the week, I realized that most local around here feared or see Malaysians as terrible human beings. 1st on the list was because how Indo maids were treated in Malaysia. I met this lady with stilt and her story was that she worked in Malaysia for two years and returned to her hometown because she was tortured by her employee. 2nd; The Manoraha and Tengku Fakhree of Kelantan royalty case. The episode here was total divergent. They really hate him and thoughts of how cruel Malaysians are. 3rd the 2002 and 2005 Bali Bombings which involved two main people of Malaysian nationality, Azhari and Mat Top. I can only listen and tell my point of view and defend those unrelated to these events. Thank you to Upin and Ipin as their widely love for the animation as everyone smiles would be shared whenever they knew that we were Malaysians. As for me everyone is an individual, you cannot judge them by their nationality. We have problems too with Indonesians in our country and I now understand why the hunger for money. I am grateful for my great upbringing from my parents. I am also glad that my journey started from the rural area as I will be heading for Jogja this coming week.

Menggo

Indonesia - Bali

25.07.10 - SUN; my plane landed at Denpasar about 7pm with Azad while Khad & Man waited for us as they arrived on earlier flight. Checked in Bali Manik, Poppies Lane II, Kuta which cost us 100k per room per night with two beds which we bunk in the four of us. Sneaked preview the beach and felt exhilarated for next dawn. MON; the day that had finally attained!!! Woke up early just to surf at Kuta beach. The long beach had many beach break points as Kuta beach was connected to Legian beach. Khad, Man and Azad scouted their surfboards as I carried mine from Malaysia. The waves were fantastic, almost 2m at its peak. Browse on the nightlife in Kuta. It seemed that mostly everybody was partying all night long. It reminded of my stay in Surfers Paradise,Gold Coast, Australia when I encountered the schoolies during my stay there. Bali is like a 2nd home for Aussies. additional to that there were many Europeans and Japanese. TUES; Morning surf. Great day surfing for me as I had a long ride with my own board which I find it difficult to ride it during my time in Cherating. Met up with Vania and Ebby which was our neighbour. They were from Jakarta and were on vacation. It’s easier to roam with them as they were Indonesians and managed to bargain stuff to a local price. Evening surf. We rent motorbikes which was 200k per bike for a week. Vania and Ebby exposed us more of Kuta. Went to Discovery Mall at Central Kuta where local youth loiters. WED; Morning surf. convinced Abby and Vania to surf. Met Ben & Morehu which was our other neighbour . They were pro kiwi surfers from New Zealand. Bungy jump with Vania in the evening at Legian Beach nearby Seminyak. 550k rupee as I imitated to be a local. The cost had been double if you were not a local. Cannot deny how frightening it was just to glance down but once leapt it was purely awesome adrenaline rush through the veins.

THU; Morning surf at Kuta halfway and went to Canggu beach which were 45minutes motor drive bearing north. The waves were simply bigger and angrier. Canggu had reef break which made it easier to predict but can be risky when low tides because the corals were about a foot away. It was a tiring day just paddling throughout the strong current and windy day which made the break unpredictable at times. It was the last night for Ebby & Vania as their time in Bali had almost came to its end. Had seafood to celebrate the night. FRI; Morning surf as it has become our routine during the day to surf until fatigue. Khad with the most drive but I always come out early from the sea depending on frustration with performance or simply just knackered. Vania & Ebby left that evening heading back to their home in Jakarta. Met up with Kish n Zan from Malaysia. Kish was our friend who won a trip to Bali. Showed them around Kuta and looked for Kish’s soon to be surfboard. SAT; by today I begun waking up late and would likely to surf around 9 – 10am. The sea water in Kuta can be too chilly during the dawn. I do not know how Khad did it every sunrise. Went for a hour drive heading south to Uluwatu after lunch. The waves were incredible mainly because of the clear sea water but I didn’t surf only to be envious of Khad & Man surfing the waves of Uluwatu. Besides that the evening scenery was mesmerizing enough. Today was Ben’s (new zealand neighbour) 24th birthday. He invited us to celebrate it at Apache Reggae bar. Music was good. Met Robyn (Aussie) & Yanti (Belgium) which was one of our neighbours too heading for Ben’s birthday.











Week 2
01.08.10 – SUN; Morning surf. It was Azad’s last day as for me, Khad and Man extended our stay. Went to Denpasar Airport in the evening. Azad departed on 7pm flight followed by Kish & Zan on 9pm flight. Yanti also left the next morning on 7am flight. MON; took a day off from surfing after continuous work out for a week. Mostly did my resting (sleeping) and planned out the rest of our stay. Met with Okta at a tribal music instrument shop where he works. Man met up with Okta before I did and Okta was a close friend of Robyn. They all had the same interest with tribal drums and beats where they would jam even for a while in the music shop. Just listening to beats and trying to join them with other relevant percussion had surely made my night. TUE: good surf day for me as I had another great ride. The waves were smaller this week comparing to the first week. That night Okta brought us to a Roti Canai and Teh Tarik restaurant as Robyn was craving for it. Good food but not as good as Malaysians. WED; worst surfing day up to date. Most of my time was battling with the waves. A washing machine day as I rolled within the waves a couple of times. Met with Ibu Ul’us which was an owner of a Warung Jawa where the foods were cheaper than most of the Warungs or Restaurant around. Also met up with Pak Imron and made plans to Grajakan as Khad was eager to go to Pelengkung (G-land) which was said the biggest waves in Indonesia were found there. THU; early morning surf and the waves went big again today. The waves were not cute anymore, much angrier and could put you in shock when a 2.5meter wave coming in front of you. Glad with a few rides and of course a lot of wipe outs. FRI; slept the whole morning. Went for Friday prayers and the khutbah was about Ramadhan as it was a couple of days away from puasa. Evening surf. Knackered because had to paddle through the strong rip current. SAT; Nothing much today. Body felt a bit warm. Evening surf. Cannot wait for tomorrow to explore the Java Island...

Cherating Cherating..... surfing Cherating

It's been awhile since my last blog. I had to job hunt since my pockets were running low in cash. Finally after having my 5th interview since September, I conclusively received a job. Initially, my employer welcomed me to affiliate them in December but I requested to postpone as I had the one last thing on my mind to do before my reality starts and that is to surf...... the yearly monsoon invades again and it’s the perfect time for me to study surfing. I spent my remaining productive lazy bumming days in Cherating. I did not had much to spent, so I did some part time working only to survive the free stay at Cherating Cottage.




Cherating had been my favourite destination in Malaysia for the past seven years, mostly because I am astonished and fond with the travelers and backpackers that I encountered. My networks also expanded through the people I met which were related to my euro trip last summer. As I was getting bored of Cherating, I realized from Jeany, that I had come at the wrong time of the year. Usually I would crash Cherating sometime around between March to August, but it seemed Monsoon season brought something interesting for the villagers. I decided to stay for a month at the end of 2009 and a little bit of 2010 just to learn to surf. Khad and Man had been Cherating much earlier as they had their jobs as lazy bummer beach boys. So I got myself a surfing board and learnt it like the locals did. To my advantage, some of the locals were my friends and they were warmhearted and generous enough to teach and guide us. Most of them were really young at age in vice versa I was young in surfing. It was really stressful at beginning, as frustration arouses only my determination to keep on going. Step by step, one by one I had to experience to perfection (still not perfect though). Paddle!!! Paddle!!! Paddle!!! ... As the kids around me yelled giving me the energy to paddle harder to catch the wave. That was my weakness as my upper body was not as fit as my lower half because of the sports that I played had mostly applied more on my legs. It took me some time for me to get my balancing point on different surfing boards. I started out on Abbas long board. After I had a few little rides I transferred myself to my fun board. It was a tremendous change for me as the fun board it's shorter than the long board and weighing at 78kg would make it harder for me to balance on 6'2 fun board. And then it was about the waves. They do not come in good forms every day. Sometimes it was fat; sometimes it was too short, sometimes it was everywhere and sometimes there was none at all. It entirety depends on the monsoon wind which also had created a variety of strong current. I like to surf during the rainy and cloudy days compare to the hot sunny days which will ultimately burn my skin and tanned me to shiny black. The sun block was not much effective and the sea had put us in denial of the heat as it was really cool when the sun was happy. The low tide waves were better than the high tide waves as it is much thinner and much force to give you that push to have longer rides. The atmosphere in the sea were simply fantastic, mostly surrounded by the locals, sometimes foreigners, pro surfers, hot chicks and sometimes the cocky town locals (they just had that look on their faces like surfing were only meant for them, not for others to learn – usually the ones that would get pissed off with you and blame it all it on you). There was always time to chat while waiting for the waves. And to make it all worth it was that moment of ride. It was another dose of adrenaline shot to repeat it over and over again. For me that was the steps of a beginner. It took me about 5 weeks to get that ride on my own. The next level would be the maneuvering and skills.








Besides surfing, we did other activities when the sea was flat. For instance, skim board at the edge of the sea water, volley ball, beach football, kayaking and more. It was the school holidays and the young locals would always be around to make it all fun and worth staying. There were even people from outside Cherating who would stay just for the monsoon season just because of the adrenaline of wave catching. Thank you to the locals and old & new friends I gathered . Thank you Pak Tain for the stay. Now I know how it feels like craving the waves. It’s going to be some time for my next trip as I started working a couple of weeks ago just for the purpose to save up and explore. Till then see ya

Route Explorers: Journey to Bangkok (Songkla - Krabi - Phuket - Bangkok)

My next exploration was from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok.I had two other acquaintances, Khad & Lish and our mission came with a motive. It's not a vacation but a job to be done as a step to take on the world.

Day 1 (25-26/09/09)
We boarded the 14 hours KTM train ride from KL to Hat Yai which departed 9pm the night before at KL central. The cabin was comfortable but at periods can be a little a shaky as it stopped from station to another through out the east coast track. We checked in the immigration at Padang Besar by 10am. An hour later we reached our first check point in the Songkhla province, Hat Yai. The language barrier made it complicated for us get a simple answer. We met a random guy at a nearby mosque and he showed us where the minivans that will be parted to Songkla. We went on the minivan not knowing where to explore and to sleep for that night. Khad applied his communication skills which where we met two lovely girls, Pa & Jeab who had volunteered to show us around Songkla. They were heading to Rajamangala University of Technology of Srivijaya as they had some chores to do as students. After putting our bags to safety, Pa and Jeab took us to nearby beautiful beach but the sun was too hot for us to browse around. Then, we took a Tuk Tuk (Thailand kinda taxi) as Pa & Jeab took us to the Songkhla aquarium where exhibitions of fishes were displayed. Soon after, Pa & Jeab brought us to the Naga Head statue at Song Thale Park, Laem Son On and the Mermaid Statue at Samila beach. Both figure had appreciable backgrounds for the people of Songkhla. We head back to Hat Yai to spent the night at Cathay travelers hotel for 250baht per night. Later that night Pa had brought us to dinner next to the night market in Hat Yai. We met Jenny, Pa’s relative and had a little chat before ending the night.



Day 2 (27/09/09)
That morning Pa, Jeab and Jenny had breakfast with us before our departure to Krabi at 9am which cost us 240baht per person. The trip was about 5 hours with a stop at Trang. First, we searched for accommodation as we flow from a guesthouse to another to acquire an appropriate charge. We met Urai, owner of Nature View Guest house which had given us a double bedroom for 250baht per night. We were introduced to Bat, his brother who was a Tuk Tuk driver and had brought us to Tiger Temple Cave. It was 1237 steps that we climbed as my breathang became deeper for every step which made it all worth it once we were at the highest peak to view the whole of Krabi. According to the Buddhist monks that they would climb up the stairs at least twice a day. Bat had brought us to a nearby cheap halal hawker stalls nearby for dinner and later sent us at the night market.


Day 3 (28/09/09)
The day had promise us beautiful beaches and clear sea as we had book a day on a trip to Phi-Phi Island for 800 baht each. A truck picked us up from our guesthouse at 9am as they brought us to Ang Nang, 40mins drive. The trip was socially connected as we met and had conversations with people from Switzerland, Italy, Brazil, Canada and the locals. The weather was fantastic as the sun light reflected down in the deep blue sea. The jumpy boat ride took us to our first stop at Phi Phi leh, the smaller island of Phi Phi. The combination of limestone in the middle of the sea with a background of sunny blue sky mesmerized me. To my disappointment the trip to Maya Bay (The Beach, Leonardo Di Caprio) was canceled due to bad waves. We snorkeled for a hour before moving on to the Monkey Bay where the monkeys were egocentric of their appearance. We had watermelons to tease them closer and fed them; they even drank coke straight out of the glass bottle and performed mating session. As noon approached the tourist guides, Is and her sidekick Mau, which Khad managed to get intimate with, took us to Phi Phi Don which was the bigger island for lunch where we were served with full of hospitality. Before going back to the main land, we had a one last stop at the Bamboo Island to swim and relaxes. Besides that Is also explained and showed us the Tsunami hit locations in 2004. At Phi Phi island itself more than 5000 died. By 6pm we were back at our guesthouse and went for dinner.



Day 4 (29/09/09)
We left Krabi for Phuket at noon, four hours journey which cost us 250 baht each. We had the minivan sent us to Kata Karon Beach since we can get cheaper accommodation compare to the ones at Patong Beach. Phuket were known world wide as tourist favourites and the prices can get high at certain places but we sidestepped that by getting a place at Karon Beach for 300 baht per night. We went for swimming that evening at Karon beach. The tidal waves were too strong until a lifeguard had to tell us to get out. That night we rent two scooters for 350 baht and we searched for halal food. The one we ate was expensive since it was like a formal Indian restaurant. eg. Roti Cheese Naan 1250 baht = rm12.50. Yeah right but we had no other choices as we couldn't find cheap halal shop around. By 10pm, we took a drive to Patong Beach which was about 20 minutes away. The night was a total chaotic happening tourist getaway as people were partying and were entertained by the dancers. The weather was unpredictable too that night. It rained a couple of times but only for short while.



Day 5 (30/09/09)
The rainy night had made us overslept till ten in the morning. Our bus to Bangkok was five hours away. We had the rent bike for 24hours hence we spent our time to explore more of Phuket town. Along the way, there was the Wat Chalong Temple which we had a look around. It’s one of the holiest temple in Phuket. We prolonged our way to tesco to get some groceries and along the way Khad with Lish were stopped by a Thai police officer. To my relief, the police officer said "Malaysia, Asia… Okay!!!!". We found a cheap halal restaurant for lunch before we left for Bangkok about 3pm. It cost us 950baht each for the 14 hours from Karon beach which they took us by minibus to the Phuket town and from there we took the overnight bus to Bangkok. The bus was cozy but the seats did not give us that proper sleep. We had a stop at Chumpon around midnight for dinner before elongated our destination to Bangkok.


Day 6 (01/10/09)
It was a sudden awake when we reached Bangkok as the bus conductor had to call for us. It had rained all night and still was that dawn. We took a bus to Banglumphu where we researched to get bargain stay in Bangkok as we were running low of cash. Without perceiving the scenario of how it would be, we had found a place exactly on the Khosan Road itself. We furthered our rest on the bed till noon. Khad had surveyed around Banglumphu area that morning and brought us around the hectic town. We went to one bridge, Rama VII Bridge which crosses the Chao Phraya River. Some activities were done by students from schools as they were preparing for their cheer leading competition. Later that evening we head to the city by local bus and took the skytrain to Siam where all the shopping complexes illuminated the night life of Bangkok. We were told that all KFC were halal in Bangkok and it was confirmed when we had our dinner before heading to the most prominent business and financial centre of Bangkok, the Silm/Surawong area. Over 50 years ago, nobody would have the foresight that the Surawong – Silom area, then a remote district with paddy fields all around, would be main centre of business and financial. The two streets were busy not only in the daytime, but also in the evening, when people came out to eat, to meet business friends or to seek entertainment. We took the last bus to Khosan road at 10pm and to my amazement the road was a busy night market with mini bars hawker style, sarcastic t-shirts, insect foods, illegal license, foot massages all can be bought in Khosan road and the tourist from all around had made it commercialize. The loud music amplified our room till 2am. Imagine sleeping to that.



Day 7 (02/10/09)
The unplanned wake up call from the music stall had started from 7am and it carried on during the day. We went for our Friday prayers at the Cakapung mosque which was placed in among buildings where a series of alleys before finding it but the azan had always arouse the existence. It seems throughout the journey, we discover the influences of Islamic culture was mostly from Malaysia. The khutbah was almost similar with minor differences but in Thai language that kept us wondering. We had a chat with the Imam for that Friday prayers which had introduced us to Manas Nana, the Director of the New World City Hotel. He brought us to his hotel nearby and had invited us for lunch. Manas suggested going by boat along the Chao Phraya which were known as the Venice of the east. It was a cheap way to travel and also for tourist to competence the trip down the river. Later that evening we went back to our guesthouse and waited for the night as we head the Sulom/Surawong area for some amusement. We did our last minute shopping at Khosan Road before off to bed.



Day 8 (03/10/09)
A minivan took us to the airport for the 1pm flight to Penang since it was the cheapest and available. By 4.30pm we were in Penang and used the local bus to Sungai Dua for the bus back to KL. We were back home by 11pm.